[Comment]Rodage plaquette

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Les plaquettes de freins on besoin d'effectuer un rodage sérieux, pour une efficacité maximum ultérieurement.
    Roulage à faible allure, 40 ou 50 km/h et donner de petits coups de pédales pour mettre les plaquettes en place et en température.
    Ne jamais freinez jamais violemment en début de rodage, vous risquez de glacer vos plaquettes, c'est à dire de figer définitivement les résines et de les rendre inutilisables même en usage normal.
    Vous pouvez au bout de quelques kilomètres, augmenter progressivement la pression sur la pédale. Les plaquettes sont désormais en place et en température. Au bout d'une vingtaine de kilomètres, il est possible de faire quelques freinages appuyés (4 ou 5), en laissant bien refroidir entre chaque.
    Laisser refroidir complètement avant d'entamer la 2 ème phase du rodage.
    Recommencer l'opération à environ 100 km/h, procéder de la même manière et faisant de freinages ( 7à 8) très appuyés mais toujours de courte durée.
    Laisser totalement refroidir les freins avant une utilisation normale.

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Pour obtenir une performance maximale avec les produits Ferodo Racing, nous vous conseillons vivement de suivre attentivement les instructions suivantes:
        Réalisez 25 à 30 freinages d'environ 4 secondes en utilisant à peu près 50% de la pression normale exercée sur une pédale de frein. Ces freinages peuvent être effectués aussi bien sur des lignes droites que dans des virages pour écourter la procédure
        Inspectez ensuite la surface des plaquettes des 2 roues qui ont été le plus sollicitées.
    Si vous n'avez pas le temps de contrôler les plaquettes après avoir effectué le rodage il vous suffit de laisser le système de freinage se refroidir quelques instants, Les plaquettes seront alors prêtes.
    IMPORTANT: au cours du rodage, veillez bien à faire monter la température progressivement dans le système de freinage afin d'optimiser la performance du produit et la vie des disques et des plaquettes.
    CONTROLE DES PLAQUETTES: Les plaquettes doivent avoir une épaisseur de 2mm minimum. Si les plaquettes sont excessivement usées, Elles doivent être changées.
    CONTROLE AVEC PEINTURE THERMIQUE: si aucune des 3 peintures n'a changé, et que la performance du système de freinage ne donne pas entière satisfaction, il est peut-être nécessaire d'écourter la durée de refroidissement des disques. Si les 3 peintures ont changé complètement, il est alors peut-être nécessaire d'augmenter le temps de refroidissement.

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BRAKE PAD BEDDING IN PROCEDURE

New brake pads have to be bedded in upon installation. Correct bedding guarantees that new brake pads and new rotors work flawlessly together. In order to function optimally, organic brake pads must develop friction coal on its surface. This friction coal develops at a temperature of about 280 degrees C (537F). It is very important that this temperature is reached continuously and slowly. This process results that the temperature not only is penetrating the surface of the brake discs and pads, but also evenly through the whole disc and pad material. This is essential when using new brake discs, since the disc often shows signs of strains (due to the casting process and fast cooling) in the materials. A steady and careful warming and cooling process guarantees a good release of both materials.

The bedding in/brake in procedure should be done as follows:
Drive at around 35 mph (60 kmh) about 500 – 800 yards (solid discs about 500 yards, vented discs 750 yards) with slightly dragging brakes (a.k.a. light brake pedal pressure) (brake pressure < 5 bar). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300 degrees C (572F).
Now if possible drive about 2200 yards maintaining same speed without braking to allow the pads and discs to evenly cool down. At the end perform a regular brake application from 35 mph to 0. However, no Panic Stop.
Now the friction surface evenly developed friction coal, the pads bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials disappeared.
Only trained master mechanics should perform this procedure – not the car owner.
This bedding process is only suitable for the front axle not the rear.
This is related to the brake distribution of front and rear axles. In order to reach 300 degrees C (527 F) on the rear pads you would have to drive several miles with dragging brakes. However, at that time on the front axles you will have glowing red, hot discs thus destroying the front brakes.
Final note – please never forget to clean hubs and check wheel bearings. Also the brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years.

tomdouce a écrit:Infos trouvées (en Anglais pour les plaquettes Porsche (Textar):

Code:

BRAKE PAD BEDDING IN PROCEDURE

New brake pads have to be bedded in upon installation. Correct bedding guarantees that new brake pads and new rotors work flawlessly together. In order to function optimally, organic brake pads must develop friction coal on its surface. This friction coal develops at a temperature of about 280 degrees C (537F). It is very important that this temperature is reached continuously and slowly. This process results that the temperature not only is penetrating the surface of the brake discs and pads, but also evenly through the whole disc and pad material. This is essential when using new brake discs, since the disc often shows signs of strains (due to the casting process and fast cooling) in the materials. A steady and careful warming and cooling process guarantees a good release of both materials.

The bedding in/brake in procedure should be done as follows:
Drive at around 35 mph (60 kmh) about 500 – 800 yards (solid discs about 500 yards, vented discs 750 yards) with slightly dragging brakes (a.k.a. light brake pedal pressure) (brake pressure < 5 bar). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300 degrees C (572F).
Now if possible drive about 2200 yards maintaining same speed without braking to allow the pads and discs to evenly cool down. At the end perform a regular brake application from 35 mph to 0. However, no Panic Stop.
Now the friction surface evenly developed friction coal, the pads bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials disappeared.
Only trained master mechanics should perform this procedure – not the car owner.
This bedding process is only suitable for the front axle not the rear.
This is related to the brake distribution of front and rear axles. In order to reach 300 degrees C (527 F) on the rear pads you would have to drive several miles with dragging brakes. However, at that time on the front axles you will have glowing red, hot discs thus destroying the front brakes.
Final note – please never forget to clean hubs and check wheel bearings. Also the brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years.